Memories of Japan

I had no hand in planning our family vacation in Japan, a trip that brought together twenty-eight relatives - including seven children - from the Philippines, Australia, Houston, Seattle, Los Angeles and Las Vegas, to celebrate the 80th birthday of my brother-in-law. With the vacationers composed of three generations, each of us had our own distinct idea of what an ideal vacation should be.

I entrusted the planning to my wife and her siblings, who meticulously mapped out the cities to explore, the parks and the temples to visit, the train routes to navigate, and even the restaurants to try. From the outset, I chose simply to go with the flow and allow the unexpected to surprise me.

The moment my wife and I arrived at Haneda Airport last April 4, I felt something within me beginning to relax. After clearing immigration, I sensed the beginning of a promising vacation when I saw a gentleman in a dark suit standing quietly among the crowd, holding a sign with my name. His name was Cam, and he was the driver assigned by the tour agency to take us to Hotel Metropolitan Tokyo Ikebukuro. His presence was reassuring knowing that some of our relatives at a different airport were not as fortunate – their driver had left after failing to locate them.

Tokyo

Just as Europe captivates tourists with its majestic cathedrals and castles, Japan offers something equally rare with its centuries-old traditions and love for innovation.

Tokyo, Japan’s capital, is a microcosm of what Japan is all about. Visiting the Senso-ji Temple, Tokyo’s oldest temple located in the Asakusa district, observing a row of Buddhist cemetery markers set in quiet proximity to a temple, strolling along the embankments of the Sumida River as we watched in full view the 634-meter Tokyo Skytree observation tower, and visiting the captivating TeamLab Borderless, a digital art museum renowned for its innovative use of technology, offer any traveler a deeper understanding why respect for tradition and love for innovations hold such significance for the Japanese. For a first-time visitor in Japan like me, Tokyo imparts a personal realization and experience that will be hard to forget long after I have left Japan.

The Shinjuku Food Tour, led by a local guide well-versed in Japanese cuisine, afforded me unique insights as we stopped at four small eateries to try tonkatsu, sushi, sashimi, yakitori and even Japanese sake. The cuisine, served in small servings and based on rice with miso soup, is often accompanied by tea or sake, although beer and soda are available, if requested.

Hakone

After three days in Tokyo, our group departed the capital in two private vans and made our way to Hakone, a mountainous resort celebrated for its onsen (natural springs) and its proximity to Mount Fuji. Hakone offered a welcome respite from the pace of metropolitan Tokyo.

I tried the onsen where men and women were separated. It offered a very relaxing and cleaning experience for the body and mind.

Our accommodations at the Yuhohana Prince Hotel reflected traditional Japanese sensibilities. The room followed the style of Japanese home, requiring us to remove our shoes upon entry and using the slippers provided. A separate pair of slippers was designated exclusively for use inside the toilet area, in keeping with customary hygiene practice.

At our request, the hotel restaurant prepared a formal multi-course selection of Japanese dishes for dinner. We were also provided a traditional Japanese breakfast the following morning. Although I could not fully understand every explanation offered by the servers as they described each course in Japanese, their intention was unmistakable. I sensed a sincere desire on their part to help us understand the cultural importance of their cuisine in everyday life.

A short drive from our hotel took us to Lake Ashi, where one could take a pirate ship to view Mt. Fuji. However, we opted not to board the ship after our Filipino driver mentioned a nearby village where the mountain could be seen from a much closer view.

Enroute to the village, we made a brief stop at the well-known Komagatake Ropeway. Unfortunately, due to strong winds, operations were suspended that day. We continued our journey to the rural village, named Saiko Iyashi No Sato Nenba, excited for the opportunity to experience a more unobstructed view of Mt. Fuji.

What immediately drew my attention upon entering the village were the cherry blossoms and the picture-perfect view of Mt. Fuji, a snow-capped mountain just like the way I saw it in many photo magazines. After taking a few souvenir photographs with Mt. Fuji as the backdrop, we continued to wander through the village, my phone camera still in hand.

The village features traditional farmhouses converted into souvenir shops and food stalls, each one offering insights into Japanese life, clothing, tools, food, and enduring cultural traditions.

Kyoto

Kyoto was our next destination. We boarded the train bound for the Fushimi Inari Shrine. The train arrived precisely on schedule. Although the train was crowded, everybody was quiet and doing their own thing. In a sense, there was order, and it made me feel secure and confident that nothing untoward would happen to foreigners like us. I thought that this must have been a reflection of the respectfulness for which Japanese are well known.

When we reached the shrine, heavy rain was already falling. Our tour guide explained that Fushimi Inari is renowned for its striking vermillion torii gates, which line the pathways ascending Mt. Inari, named after Inari, the god of rice.

We did not make it to the top of Mt. Inari. The climb was challenging due to the sheer number of tourists navigating the narrow path and bumping into each other in pouring rain. Despite the difficulty, the experience was unforgettable.

The following day, under clear and sunny weather, we drove to the Arashiyama Bamboo Forest, a favorite destination for tourists. Its towering bamboo groves formed a pathway where we wandered, took pictures, and felt the cool breeze.

If the temples we have visited prompted me to reflect on my own spiritual beliefs, the bamboo forest offered something altogether different: a welcome respite from the tiredness of the day’s long walk into a feeling of ease and calmness.

A short walk from the Arashiyama Bamboo Forest took us to the Kimono Forest. It features cylindrical pillars wrapped in colorful kimono fabrics. We strolled through its pathways, as we paused to admire the pillars’ intricate patterns and took photos. Had we remained until nightfall, we would have seen the walkway turn into a bright corridor once the pillars were illuminated from within.

Nara

Another frequently visited destination that offers a vivid glimpse into the richness of the Japanese culture is Nara, which is easily accessible from Kyoto by car.

My five rumbunctious grandchildren especially enjoyed their time in Nara Park, home to the thousands of roaming deer famous for bowing to visitors when fed with Nara-made crackers. These deer, believed to be messengers of gods, are gentle and interact with visitors in ways as if they are humans. They follow visitors playfully, nudging for attention and more crackers. I am sure they created an experience for my grandchildren they will never forget.

A short walk from Nara Park stands the Todai-ji Temple, home to the world’s largest bronze Buddha, enshrined within the Great Buddha Hall – the largest wooden structure of its kind. The Japanese reverence for tradition was evident inside the hall, as I observed individuals engaging in a range of ritualistic practices.

My five grandkids tried their luck by crawling through the so-called ‘lucky tunnel,’ said to be the size of Buddha’s nostrils, and did so with little difficulty. I observed a few adults who were unable to make their way through the ‘lucky tunnel.’

We concluded our day in Nara with a visit to Kinkaku-ji, the celebrated Golden Pavillion because its upper two stories are adorned in gold leaf.

Osaka

Osaka was the last destination in our itinerary. The city offers an abundance of attractions, like Osaka Castle. I only wish my wife and I had more time to explore the traditional side of Osaka, but unfortunately, we did not.

Even so, there were a few experiences that made our brief stint in Osaka memorable.

Our first activity was taking an evening stroll through Dotonbori, the city’s most iconic entertainment district. Towering neon billboards advertising famous Japanese brands illuminated the streets mesmerizing me. Osaka by night is a marvel to behold.

The most recognizable landmark is the Glico Man, positioned above the Dotonbori Bridge. It’s a popular spot where visitors take photos with the glowing figure as their backdrop.

The streets were filled with both locals and foreign tourists, young and old, enjoying the night, some carrying soda pops and cans of beers, others gathered in small eateries serving affordable Japanese dishes. Street signs are written in Japanese characters, but somehow, I understood them.

Despite the crowd, I never felt unsafe. Everyone seemed to be enjoying being out in the city.

Another noteworthy experience was our immersion in Osaka’s celebrated culinary scene. A local guide, who happens to be a Japanese-Filipino and speaks Tagalog, met us in front of the Don Quijote Dotonbori Midosuji store to lead a three-hour walking food tour. Over the course of the tour, we visited four local restaurants and sampled twelve distinct Japanese dishes and street food. One of the roadside restaurants was featured in the Michelin Guide, a restaurant rating system known for awarding stars to exceptional dining establishments.

Conclusion

Our two-week vacation in Japan was more than a sightseeing. I leave with a deeper understanding and appreciation of the Japanese tradition and way of life. From the temples to the giant neon billboards, from the beautiful sights to good food, everyday offered something different and unforgettable.

What stays with me are the small moments -- philosophers call them ‘interconnected occurrences’ -- travelling together, shared stories, family bonding, shared meals, hearty laughter, and the gentle kindness of strangers.

These small moments are what matter because they become vivid memories that will remain with me for a lifetime.